In the city with the highest ice cream consumption in Japan, there was a paradise for enjoying ice cream after a bath.

Hello. I'm Iceman Fukudome, an ice cream critic. When you hear 'winter ice cream,' what kind of scene comes to mind?
Rich ice cream enjoyed in a heated room in a kotatsu. That sense of reward, akin to a sense of forbiddenness, is not a "special luxury" here in Ishikawa Prefecture, but rather an "everyday life."
According to the Ministry of Internal Affairs and Communications' household surveys, Kanazawa City's spending on ice cream and sherbet consistently ranks among the top in the country. According to 2022 data, the annual average per household was 13,932 yen, exceeding the national average by more than 2,500 yen. In the 11 years since 2012, it has ranked first nationwide seven times, making it a true 'Ice Kingdom.'

The background is extremely rational and cultural.
The average summer temperature in Kanazawa (Jun. to Aug.) is 25–26°C. Generally, ice cream starts to taste delicious when the temperature exceeds 22–23°C, and is said to peak consumption around 25°C. In other words, the climate conditions are perfectly matched.
And winter. Being a snowy country, the homes are well-equipped with heating facilities, and the interiors are always warm. Furthermore, in this region, where tea ceremony culture is deeply rooted, there is a soil where people can enjoy seasonal sweets such as New Year's "Fukubai" and summer "Himuro Manju."
In the inner rooms of the Ice Kingdom, there is a little-known 'post-bath ice cream paradise.'
Kaga Yamanaka Onsen was loved by haiku master Matsuo Basho and praised alongside Arima and Kusatsu as one of the "Three Famous Hot Springs of Fusō."
This time, we will guide you on a "Winter Ice Hot Spring Trip" to explore the exquisite marriage of hot springs and ice cream in this place with a history of 1,300 years.

Yamanaka Onsen is an ancient hot spring that is said to have been discovered about 1300 years ago by the high-ranking Buddhist monk Gyoki.
In 1689, during his journey chronicled in "The Narrow Road to the Deep North," the renowned haiku poet Matsuo Basho visited this place. The fact that Basho, who was known to dislike hot springs, stayed here for an unusually long 8 nights and 9 days speaks volumes about the high quality of these hot springs.
Here, Basho likened it to the Chinese legend of Kikujido (the story of a boy who gained longevity by drinking the dew from chrysanthemums) and composed the following poem:

"In the mountains, I will not pick chrysanthemums, for I will not take the scent of the hot springs."
(Just smelling the fragrance of this mountain spring makes me feel like I could live a long life without even drinking the dew from the chrysanthemums that are said to grant longevity.)

This haiku is the origin of the name of Yamanaka Onsen's public bathhouse, "Kiku-no-yu."
In this hot spring town, once beloved by writers and artists, a new culture is now flourishing: the "Yamanaka Onsen Ice Street."
"After soaking in the hot springs, all the locals eat ice cream. We want to share this culture with tourists," said the Yunomoto Town Shopping District Promotion Association, which launched the project in 2017. Initially, there were 23 participating stores, but now there are 39. Not only cafes and Japanese confectionery shops, but also butcher shops, bicycle shops, and even pharmacies are participating, offering 57 different kinds of unique local ice cream.

The area has expanded from the Yunomoto-machi shopping street to the main street, "Yuge Kaido." If you see an "Ice Street" flag in front of a shop, it's a sign that you can enjoy ice cream there. Fifth-grade students from the local Yamanaka Elementary School designed original can badges, and the whole community is working together to promote it.

On this trip, just as Basho once conveyed his emotions through haiku, I hope to convey, even in a small way, the emotions I feel by eating ice cream.

We're now heading to "Kikunoyu," a "town landmark" that's indispensable when talking about Ice Street.
This public bathhouse stands on a site where communal baths have been built since the discovery of the hot springs. It is one of the few bathhouses in Japan with separate buildings for men and women; the men's bath is a stately building in the Tenpyo style, while the women's bath has a beautiful, elegant design with graceful curves.

Entering the men's bath, you're greeted by a simple and clean space. The bathtub is 1 meter deep, designed for standing soaks. The water is colorless and transparent, with a gentle quality that feels smooth on the skin. As you let the jets from the central pillar hit your back, you warm up while imagining how delicious the ice cream you'll eat later will be.
A large section of the "Yamanaka Onsen Engi Emaki" (Illustrated Scroll of the Legend of Yamanaka Onsen) is depicted on the wall using Kutani ware tiles, allowing you to feel the history of the hot spring while soaking in the bath.

After a hot bath, I let the breeze cool my body, and now it's time to get down to business. This is where the "post-bath ice cream paradise" truly shines.

① Kikunoyu Ice Candy (250 yen) — "Eat" the 1300-year-old hot spring source
After a relaxing bath that warms you to the core, enjoy a "Kikunoyu Ice Candy" along with a cool breeze to soothe your flushed body.

This drink was developed with the haiku "In the mountains, I will not pick the chrysanthemums..." in mind. It uses actual spring water as its base, and yellow edible chrysanthemum petals float gently in the clear ice. When held up to the light, it is as beautiful as if flowers have been trapped in amber.

With each bite, you hear a delightful crunch. The light texture, characteristic of frozen desserts, is pleasant, and it slowly melts in your mouth. The sweetness is subtle, and the aftertaste is clean. The faint aroma of chrysanthemum permeates your body after a bath.

② Yamanaka Urushiza "Gold Leaf Ice Cream" (2,000 yen) — A golden soft serve ice cream adorned with the essence of traditional craftsmanship.
Next, we headed to "Yamanaka Urushiza," a facility that showcases the history and techniques of Yamanaka lacquerware. At "Plum," a cafe and restaurant located on the first floor, we enjoyed their signature dish, "Urushiza Gold Leaf Ice Cream."

Yamanaka lacquerware x Kanazawa gold leaf x vanilla soft serve ice cream—this is truly a product that brings together the best of the Hokuriku region.
The first thing that catches your eye is its appearance. A soft-serve ice cream covered in a single sheet of gold leaf is served in a lustrous Yamanaka lacquerware bowl.

The store was founded in 1988. This gold leaf ice cream has been offered continuously since the following year, Heisei 1. Originally, it all started when Urushiza Yamanaka asked us to use tableware, but it was Umeda 's idea to use lacquerware for trays and spoons. The meticulous attention to detail enhances the value of this ice cream.

It's said to be more popular among tourists, especially those from Kansai and Kanto, rather than locals. Although the price was revised to 2,000 yen due to soaring gold prices, the experience of enjoying gold leaf ice cream in the lacquerware town is well worth it.
Inside the shop, flyers made by local fifth-grade students from Yamanaka Elementary School are displayed, and seasonal oniyuzu are displayed. You can relax and enjoy ice cream in a warm atmosphere.

③ Yamashita Bicycle Shop "Amazake Ice Candy" (200 yen) — A unique treat made with sake brewery ingredients, found in a 90-year-old bicycle shop.

After warming up in the hot springs, we headed to the Yunomoto-machi shopping street. As we walked past a retro sign that read "Ice Cream Street," we came across Yamashita Bicycle Shop, which has a nostalgic atmosphere. You wouldn't guess it from the name, but this is a hidden gem known to those in the know as a famous local ice cream shop. The shop's 90-year-old building makes you feel as if you've traveled back in time to the Showa era.

It blends seamlessly into the cityscape, yet it stands out remarkably. Even on weekdays, you can see a few tourists passing by taking pictures of its exterior. It's become quite a popular spot.
When you open the door, all you see lined up are bicycles.

You might feel unsure, wondering, "Am I really in the right place?", but don't worry. There's a freezer immediately to your right as you enter, and it's a self-service system where you put your money into the piggy bank placed on top of it.

The much-anticipated "Amazake Ice Candy" is shaped like a chrysanthemum, just like the "Kikunoyu Ice Candy." It's made using amazake and sake lees from the local Matsuura Brewery and manufactured by a local confectionery shop. Since it contains no alcohol, it's safe for children.

With just one bite, the natural sweetness of the rice koji spreads gently in your mouth. The crunchy texture and rich amazake flavor are refreshing and soothing, perfect for warming up after a soak in the hot springs.
The shop owner, Mr. Yamashita, is one of the founding members of the "Yamanaka Onsen Ice Street," which started in 2017. That's what prompted him to start selling ice cream at his bicycle shop. The unusual combination of "bicycles and ice cream" has become a staple in this town. You can experience the nostalgic atmosphere unique to Yamanaka Onsen.

④ Ryotei Meigetsuro "Eel Sauce Ice Cream" (450 yen) -- A spoonful of the secret sauce that has been passed down since the Taisho era
Finally, there's one dish I was really curious about. It's served by Meigetsuro, a long-established restaurant located very close to Koorogi Bridge.

This prestigious establishment, with a four-generation history since the Taisho era, offers a prestigious dining experience where you can enjoy meals while gazing at the Kakusenkei Gorge and accompanied by the murmuring river. At Meigetsu-ro, there's a popular ice cream. Its name is "Ice Cream with Eel Sauce." Ice cream with eel sauce. Is it okay?

I cautiously took a sip and was surprised. The savory aroma, reminiscent of grilled eel, surprisingly harmonized well with the vanilla. However, no eel meat is used. Only the secret sauce, which has been passed down and added to since the company's founding in the Taisho era, is used.

The light milk ice cream combined with the rich sauce creates a unique flavor reminiscent of caramel or perhaps sweet and savory mitarashi sauce.
There's a special way to enjoy it too. First, savor it as is, then add the included green sansho pepper towards the end. The spicy kick adds a perfect accent, and the combination is fantastic. Being able to change the flavor midway through is also part of the fun.

We spoke with Kotaro Kitamura, the fourth-generation owner.

After training for seven years at a traditional Japanese restaurant, he returned to Meigetsuro.
"Originally, we served it as a dessert in our courses. About seven or eight years ago, we commercialized it as a cup ice cream. People are surprised at first, but the feedback has been excellent."
The production was entrusted to a local confectionery shop. They were given the shop's secret sauce, and the balance of the sauce and milk ice cream was adjusted many times.

"This ratio is the origin of our deliciousness. We are proud that this is a taste that could only be achieved by a long-established traditional Japanese restaurant."
While there are many unusual ice creams throughout Japan, it's rare to find one that combines uniqueness and deliciousness. Honestly, I want to eat it again—it's a perfectly crafted Japanese dessert that showcases the true potential of a high-class Japanese restaurant.

After enjoying some ice cream, you'll probably want to warm up in a hot spring again. The place I visited was "Kaga Bessho Onsen".

Located about a 14-minute drive from Yamanaka Onsen, this hidden gem Day Trip hot spring facility is loved by locals and situated between Yamashiro Onsen and Yamanaka Onsen. 100% natural spring water overflows from the bathtub—a literal free-flowing hot spring experience. There are open-air baths, cold baths using well water, and saunas, all thoroughly cleaned and hygienic.

The spring water is a calcium-sodium sulfate spring. It is rich in minerals and is said to be effective for atopic dermatitis and neuralgia. It's renowned as a mildly alkaline, moisturizing hot spring for beautiful skin, and the open-air bath set in a tranquil garden is particularly popular. It warms you to the core.
Their specialty is their incredibly delicious onsen tamago (hot spring eggs), prepared using a hot spring water method. They offer two types: Healthy White Eggs (90 yen each) and Free-Range Gold Eggs (100 yen each), both with a wonderfully runny yolk.

If you enjoy ice cream, we highly recommend exploring the Kakusenkei Gorge. The approximately 1.3 km walking trail along the Daishoji River valley offers seasonal spectacular views to enjoy. The autumn foliage season is especially spectacular. The red and yellow autumn leaves coloring the valley further enhance the atmosphere of the hot spring town.
The most famous scenic spot representing Yamanaka Onsen is Korogi Bridge. This elegant bridge is made entirely of hinoki wood, and its seasonal charm encapsulates the charm of Japan. There are various theories about the origin of the name 'Korogi': some say it was once called 'Kourogi' because the route was dangerous, and others say it comes from crickets that call on autumn nights. The fourth bridge was completed in 2019 and still attracts many tourists.

The 'Yuge Kaido' stretches about 600 meters from Kiku-no-Yu to Hasebe Shrine and near Korogi Bridge. Amid the steam and scent of hot springs, Yamanaka lacquerware, Kutani ware galleries, cafes, and Meals are lined up.
There are no utility poles, wide sidewalks are maintained, allowing for a leisurely stroll. It's also great that the Kaido shop offers free luggage storage and restroom use. The handmade croquettes at the butcher shop 'Niku no Izumiya' are so popular that they have long lines.

In the town of Yamanaka Onsen, there was not only hot springs, but also a culture and local tradition that could be discovered through ice cream.
The traditional hot spring resort blends the flavors of a slightly upscale restaurant, the warm hospitality of a retro bicycle shop, and the skill of a lacquerware craftsman. Through the cool, sweet ice cream, the town and its people are gently connected—that's the impression I got.
A hot spring resort with a 1300-year history welcomes tourists with new attractions. It feels as though the people of Yamanaka Onsen, while preserving tradition, are also embracing new challenges, and this sentiment is embodied in every single ice cream cone.
As the snow begins to fall, we warm ourselves in the hot springs and eat ice cream. A small luxury in the extraordinary. That's the Yamanaka Onsen way to enjoy winter.
For your next travel destination, be sure to consider Yamanaka Onsen. And while you're there, try to find your favorite treat on Ice Street.

*The statistics, facility information, spring quality, and efficacy information presented in this article are based on information available at the time of reporting and are not guaranteed to be accurate.
Please note that prices, opening hours, and services may change, so please check the latest information at each facility or on their official website.